Well, I need some help. I´m having a problem with my cryptomeria´s needles. The thing is that a part of its needles are starting to dry progressively. I´m not sure if it is a matter of watering or not. You´ll see, in order to shed some perspective I have to say that I recovered the tree from the wild late February and inmediately I placed it in a training pot. Now, I think that I prepared the soil mixture wrongly since I hadn´t sieved it very well and some soil dust remained within the mixture and my tree was always too wet, I think. So, in order to solve this I repotted once more a week ago and the needles, in some parts are growing brown. I should say that, prior the last week´s repotting, the needles were already turning brown, but not in such an accelerated rythm. Also, I´m posting some pictures in order to have a better insight of the problem.

I am not sure what country you are in. This species does not like cold winds, and will go brown during the winter naturally. Depending on how much root you had to remove, I would think that it should be fine.
I would probably remove the needles that have died.
It is a pity you had to do a second re pot that can't have helped, but I understand the reasons.
I would leave it now and allow to settle down for the next year before doing any work on it

Thanks Geoff,

Well I´m in Spain, 200 kms south Madrid. The last week it´s been a windy one. I didn´t know that issue about cold winds. Here we had a couple of warm days that made us all think spring was at hand, but suddenly it is winter again and temperatures dropped and all that mixed with cold winds.
And yes... I was suffering myself while I was doing the second repot process... but it was necessary. Everything I read recomended letting the tree be for further recovery. You even told me so in a previous post and aside for the repotting, I was following your advices.
Oh... and I removed up to 1/3 of the roots, but I have to say that some of the thinner roots, the ones the tree needs the most, were torn apart while repotting, since, like I said, I sieved the soil mixture wrongly and the soil was deeply attached to the roots in a manner that no matter how careful I was, some roots were torn. That is sad. Now I´m crossing my fingers and hoping for my tree not to die.

Fine,
I do think it should recover. The amount of root removed was ok, not too much. I think it needs some shelter from winds and hot sun just for a few weeks.
We have had some warmer days too, but it has been colder for the last week. The winter has been the wettest I have ever known. Very little frosts and no snow at all. Very unusual.
All my trees have survived which is good. Most are coming into but or leaf, apart from the Beech and Oaks.
If you look on my web site you will see two of my new trees in the new blog.
blackmorevalebonsaigroup.co.uk

Just coming from your new blog Geoff. Those are a couple of beatiful trees. Oh, and I see your page has received over 59 thousand hits... Amazing!
These days I´m searching for an olive tree (olea sylvestris) and an almond tree (prunus dulcis) in order to increase my collection and try new things with them, so I can keep learning. However, that search will have to wait until May because I´m leaving home for two weeks and I don´t want to risk losing any of my trees. By the way, I almost have my dripping system all wrapped up... as soon as I have it built I promise to post some pictures.

Good, thanks for looking. I have had a lot of hits since I have had it running.
I forgot you going away. I will be interested in seeing the system.

Hey,

The brown needles look twisted and unevenly brown-black ish and look more like a sun burn by me..yea the weather is folling around and my Pinus silvestris being an old 45 yo tree got its burns too, the ends got brownish and thats wery casual in theese kinda springs, spring sun light is more harmfull than full day in summer sun light because its more active and the treese are just coming out of over-wintering thats wery casual, Japanese Acers suffer from this so wildly their whole branches even turn white ish from the burns... So that also may be the colprate..

About the soil , u live in a hot enviroment and adding more dark soil is good because it sustains water in hot days but if u add it too much its a death for a needle foliage tree couse they dont like overwatering , i recommend mixing in akadama 1/3 if posible cause its better in everyway than a rock and it has minerals so planting in pure akadama is posible too ( we do it here in Lithuania couse of rain) and adding Korean or anykind lava rocks is good for supplying trees with minerals and drainage..

Fingers crossed

Domas may be right, but Cryps do suffer in wind more, especially in the winter. They will green up again once the weather warms up.
I find that Maples are fine in the sun providing there is sufficient water at the roots. If they dry out the leaves will burn.
I use Akadama with a product called Kyodama, which is a gritty type of soil as this does not break down like the akadama.

Well, I think the browning of the leaves has stopped by now or at least it has reduced its rate. As for the sun... I´m not 100% sure of it since my Cryptomeria receives only around 4 to 5 hours of sun every day and none of those hours come from direct light, well, maybe just the light from the early morning comes directly to it, since I have it in a balcony facing east, and by the time mid-day has arrived, the ceiling protects it with a shady position. Anyways, that´s something else I didn´t know about Cryptomerias, and for that I´m grateful... Thanks Domas.

And Geoff... I used for my soil mixture 1/3 of peat, 1/3 of grit of medium grain (3 mm) and 1/3 of grit of small grain (1,5 mm)...oh, and also some pine bark. I used these materials because I can get my hands on them with no aditional costs since I can collect them in my surroundings without any problem at all. You´ll see... Akadama is getting more expensive every day, but yes, I expect, at some point, planting some of my future new trees using Akadama and see by myself how it works... The mere use of this word seems like magic in the world of bonsai... Everyone talks about it, but at the same time, no one seems to be in absolute agreement about which is the most successful mixture for bonsai soil... Lots of doubts I have there!!!

So... thank you both, once again

Hmm maples get burned leaves always, their japanese maples like Deshojo always burn alitle no matter what , well as i know atleast couse i never heard this not happening to Deshojos or just Jap.Acers or anyway stopping it happening besides putting it in a half-shade.. If u know how to solve it please tell meh!!