The pictures here are a water jasmine that my wife and I bought this winter... When we got it, it looked even worse than the first picture. It's previous owner had kept it at around 3 degrees, which meant a large number of brown tips on the leaves, and very thin foliage. As you can see from the later pictures... we've managed to bring this guy back to health.
The second picture is it's first flowering in may...
The third picture is in July... where you can see some nice backbudding on the trunk... I also did some wiring to try and move some of the lower branches out. to let more light into the center, as the tree looses some of the inner leaves. I was also thinking that the newer lower branches tend to grow straigth up, and I wanted to get them to grow out slightly. Not sure if that was a good idea, but the branches seem to be fine.
The last few pictures are from a couple of days ago. In late august it started to flower again... and have even more flowers than before. I'm not sure if this is normal... the flowers do tend to fall off after a few days. anyone with more experience here who has seen this?
I'm not really happy with the pot. Its original pot was damaged in transport, and this one was used as a stand in... I'm thinking about repotting in spring, and was thinking of a round pot, but am open to suggestions.

That tree grows pretty fast so there is nothing wrong with that. But since the tree grows fast, you should remove wires early before the tree starting growing on the wire. According to the internet, your tree is healthy because the leaves are very green in the last few pictures.
If I owned your tree, I would keep the tree in the current pot but that's my own taste so you can do whatever you want.

I'm a beginner too but I hope I helped you.

I know that the tree grows fast, I've been working with it for almost 10 months... or so... some of the greenness of the leaves is effectd by the lighting a the time of the pictures, or artificial lighting.

The main reason I want a new pot, is that this particular pot doesn't give me the feeling of space... the nebari and roots take up a large amount of the space in the container... I think a wider oval pot would give a better impression of spasce around the tree.. and make the whole composition feel less cramped... I also think a deeper pot, so as to create more of a mound like shape to the nebari... but I could be wrong with my idea or impression.

I'd like to have a square/rectangular pot for trees like yours that have a circular and round shape but I do think that maybe a change to a bigger pot would be nice. If the roots aren't thick, I would personally get a shallower pot because deeper pots don't express the 'bonsai' feeling (well that's just my own taste).

I think you should prune off the lower leaves and the tree would look much smaller and the trunk would look much thicker in my opinion.

I was actually thinking of doing a hard prune of some of the upper branches to get the tree to backbud closer to the base as there is a good distance between the trunk(s) and the foliage.

The nebari were difficult to bend when I did the emergency repot, so I was thinking of something deeper and wider also for that reason. Plus I think the pots that I'm thinking of would give a less symmetrical impression.

I would wait to hard prune until spring, but you might be able to get away with it, since it is the beginning of autumn.

I thought I would post a couple of pictures of this guy as it is this year. It is still not the best tree and I'm not sure if I can make a good bonsai, but I am happy with the growth and number of flowers this year.

Well, it looks healthy!
What I have noticed though is that the tree is too tall as it stands now; I think that to become a good bonsai, the proportion should be a little shorter. If there is a way to control the apex growth, of course.

The trunk is too thin for it's height. I want to cut it back in a year, hoping the lower branches will grow out a bit. I am trying to do this a bit conservatively, but maybe I should to a more radical cutback.

I own 2 wrightia religiosa's and they are native to the region of the world i live in. In tropical climate, they grow throughout the year. If you have conditions right (warm and humid climate) you can do significant pruning throughout the year. including hard trunk pruning.

The blooms you showed are very few and seemed very far from what real blooms on these trees look like when they bloom. Typically in our climate, we do a 100% defoliation about 2-4 times a year. After full defoliation, in 30-35 days you will see your tree in full bloom. where there will be 100s of blooms at a time... its beautiful... and the sweet smell of those flowers can be smelt across the room from my balcony. In fact, I just defoliated my tree completely, so i get a full bloom around my son's birthday in early october. Remember this tree loves water... so water regularly and use a good balanced fertilizer. My tree responds very well to fish emulsion after defoliation. But be careful dont give heavy Nitrogen fertilizers as the leaves will grow out bigger than desired. These trees also ramify well, so cut back every 2 months.

On the pot, I agree, an oval.. and perhaps a glazed pot will look good with this tree, especially when it is blooming.