I think this has been referring to an older post, and not sure if the user is still on the forum. Definitely curious.
I work in high-end performance lighting, and the LED he/she is using is what's known as a COB (Chip On Board). They really crank out light, but also produce lots of heat. That is why this has that large heat sink on it (it's actually a heat sink for a computer CPU with copper heat pipes and integral fan, but perfect for this application). The truth of LED is they produce more lumens (light output) per watt than incandescent, which means you can get the same output with less heat. But, when you push lots of lumens, you still produce lots of heat (Operating temps should be kept ~90°C or less). Hence, the heat sink. Now, color...
Color temp: Plants love reds and blues. All other colors are kinda wasted on them. Most of these COBs (& lighting in general) use between 2700K-5000K. The lower the number, the warmer the light. The higher, the bluer. 2700K looks like an incandescent bulb. 2400K incan on a dimmer (sunset). 5000-6000K will remind you of poor fluorescent choices. There are some tune-able RGBW's out there (red, green, blue, white), but many don't crank out lumens. If you go a route like this COB option, just use gel filters (theatrical color plates). If you're not up for customizing or DIY projects, plenty of people make grow lights with the proper color ranges. Look into hydroponic suppliers, or even aquarium aquascapers - there's good stuff.
For some reference: Standard 60W incandescent pushes ~1000 lumens (lm). This Cree LED is pushing 10,000 lm. The sun produces ~ 98,000 lm at sea level. These LEDs will blind you, so use a diffuser or don't stare at them.