By placing a wire very tight just below where you would like to stimulate roots, and adding rooting hormone, substrate & foilwrapping, you should get the desired effect.
By placing a wire very tight just below where you would like to stimulate roots, and adding rooting hormone, substrate & foilwrapping, you should get the desired effect.
howdy Hein,
well i guess its my turn to put my 2 cents in .as for the sphagnum moss for best results you should try and find long strand moss . the reasons i have found out that it is used and not soil are
1. the loose material allows roots to grow more efficient for water uptake
(they will be more brittle but will be nothing but fat feeder roots)
2. the roots will grow faster not having to push through soil materials
3.it is sooo much easier to try to wrap moss in plastic around a tree trunk than it is soil
as for the turniquet layer method if you are trying to create better nebari this is perfect.you will need at least 3mm wire and it needs to actually crush the outer layer of bark to stop the action of the cambium layer.this technique stops the flow of energy to the root system,the roots that are ther can still feed the plant but the energy made by the leaves has no place to be stored.this is why new roots form . you also can just burry the trunk farther in the soil
no plastic or moss needed it needs to be springtime just as new buds are begining to open .feed it well til dormancy hits to give it as much stength for its stressful spring ...best of luck
Ive just recently used a mixture of palm peat and sphagnum moss and have had a higher success rate than just using moss. Just letting you all know... Im definitively going to be using this method again.
Yay, its nice to hear i may be of help to you . What ive also been doing a little is using a very weak fungicide solution when I inject the air layer with water. I only did that for the last few weeks when algae tends to build up.