simplysaid wrote:

Don't most Bonsai enthusiasts try to hit the ground running for best results?

Which is why people use established techniques. Like this one.

Today I planted two more Japanese maples. This time across the yard from the other two mentioned above. These new trees are in full sun and do not have the board beneath them. It is my experiment to track and see if there are different growth rates, how the roots look, sun or shade, etc. Since we are soon heading into autumn here in Michigan a lot of nurseries have their stock on sale. I'd love to purchase more variety of trees to grow for bonsai but this is enough for awhile.

Ruth wrote:

Today I planted two more Japanese maples. This time across the yard from the other two mentioned above. These new trees are in full sun and do not have the board beneath them. It is my experiment to track and see if there are different growth rates, how the roots look, sun or shade, etc. Since we are soon heading into autumn here in Michigan a lot of nurseries have their stock on sale. I'd love to purchase more variety of trees to grow for bonsai but this is enough for awhile.

I would let the dissectums grow freely. They are beautiful in the garden, but less suitable for bonsai imho.
Maples are often grafted. Did you check for ugly grafts? This can be difficult to correct.

I have about 10 maples, I think 7 different species/varieties. They are beautiful and one of the prettiest sites in my garden is my big maple at the end of the afternoon, when the sun shines through the leaves. I'm growing them for bonsai, but it is not likely I will use them all. Some of them I'll just keep as beautiful garden trees.

I don't know if I would be able to spot a graft being new to this. There is one tree that has a weird place on the bottom and I could see that being a grafted place. They are beautiful trees. I am partial to the weeping variety. I will letting them all grow freely for a few years. My deck overlooks where they are planted so I am enjoying them already. They make me smile.

leatherback wrote:

simplysaid wrote:

Don't most Bonsai enthusiasts try to hit the ground running for best results?

Which is why people use established techniques. Like this one.

I'm sorry... I think I'm missing something. Using this technique, you still have to wait for the tree to grow. And what's the advantage of using it on a larger trunk?
I've also read that maples have problems with soil being to high on the trunk and can rot, rather than grow roots. I'm not trying to rain on Ruth using this technique, I just have questions that I'd like answered so that I can make the best educated decision on using this.

simplysaid wrote:

I'm sorry... I think I'm missing something. Using this technique, you still have to wait for the tree to grow. And what's the advantage of using it on a larger trunk?

Suppose I am missing your point. Yes. The tree needs to grow. I already pointed out that I know it being used on younger speciments, as they grow thicker much faster, relatively speaking. As such, you get better more even root formation, I think.
Unless you think one should not work on plants like this. I disagree. I very much dislike the current "If it cannot be a bonsi in the next 2 months it is not worth the effort" mentality in bonsai. Many great bonsai were grown out of cuttins and seed.

leatherback wrote:

Unless you think one should not work on plants like this. I disagree. I very much dislike the current "If it cannot be a bonsi in the next 2 months it is not worth the effort" mentality in bonsai. Many great bonsai were grown out of cuttins and seed.

And I disagree with that. Not that you should expect result in 2 months, but the dissectum is not going to give a good result in 2 years (and longer).
The foliage is high up the trunk - and that's probably where the graft is too. Dissectums are slow growers and they are not great as bonsai. I like them more as normal garden plants.

Auk wrote:

leatherback wrote:

Unless you think one should not work on plants like this. I disagree. I very much dislike the current "If it cannot be a bonsi in the next 2 months it is not worth the effort" mentality in bonsai. Many great bonsai were grown out of cuttins and seed.

And I disagree with that. Not that you should expect result in 2 months, but the dissectum is not going to give a good result in 2 years (and longer).
The foliage is high up the trunk - and that's probably where the graft is too. Dissectums are slow growers and they are not great as bonsai. I like them more as normal garden plants.

I understand how the process works. I don't accept a Bonsai in 2 moths theory. But most of the video's, articles, and conversations about bonsai, lead to getting results in 1-10 years. Depending on the specimen. Personally I don't see the advantage of using this practice considering MOST people want workable material within a shorter time frame.

Auk, if there is no graft, wouldn't i be able to grow the trunk the size I desire and then cut the trunk down. Wouldn't new shoots make my new branches much shorter than where they are now? l understand an Acer may be the best for bonsai but could the trees i have work? I don't expect to ever have show pieces, I want to learn the process. There are good bonsai I could just buy now and have all the work done for me. I am not interested in that after all the reading I have done. I am interested in the work to create bonsai. Maybe someday i will buy someone else's work. Now I want it to be my work.

Ruth wrote:

l understand an Acer may be the best for bonsai but could the trees i have work?

Acer Palmatum is great for bonsai!
The Acer Palmatum Dissectum varieties are less suitable.
Yes, it will work, bug the dissectums will be harder and the result will not be as good.