Hey, everyone,
I am new to the forum and relatively new to bonsai. I had a couple of trees years ago, but haven't been into it for years due to having kids, job, etc.. Kids are a bit older now and job is slower so I am coming back to the hobby (hate calling it a hobby). Anyway, I have a Japanese maple for a very long time, it was a gift many years ago.

It spent years in a pot, then a few more years in the ground.. growing freely. However, my wife was never into Japanese maples and didn't like the placement in the ground so I dug it up and potted it.

I did my best not to cut many roots. The tree has always had strong surface roots, likely from being in pots for years. I cut back a little bit of the foliage and placed it in a large pot so it can "heal" from digging it up. My plan is to leave it in the big pot for a year before trying to bonsai it, I don't want to shock it so much that it dies. I'll need some help on the process, I know it'll be a bit of a challenge.

The trunk is pretty thick and has a big scar (is that from a graft from the original nursery, not sure). Let me know what you all think, I think it's a beautiful tree even with it's chunky weird trunk.

Thanks,
Mark

For bonsai, that scar is not acceptable. This plant is not good material unless when you want to take drastic steps, like airlayering it above that scar.

(not saying bonsai cannot have scars, but the combination of a straight trunk, that bulge and that scar is a problem)

Hey Mark, I think we’re around the same level on the “Hobby”.
This looks graft from that angle. You can probably get two cultivars out from it
I’m sure someone else will chim in with knowledge, but if it’s mine, with my current mind I would do the following:

1. Cut or upper line of air layering
2. Bottom line in case of air layering
3. Ground layering with a tall pot. The new bottom of the tree

I would carving out that middle section, and I would use wood preservation to maintain. I love deadwood on deciduous...


* Edit: Hey Auk ^^ I think I’m in the drastic side, but that scar can be turn an advantage. Like carving the hell out of it...

Felidae wrote: I’m sure someone else will chim in with knowledge

Nope. No need. You already said it.

I love deadwood on deciduous

I disagree with this though.

Auk wrote:

Felidae wrote: I’m sure someone else will chim in with knowledge

Nope. No need. You already said it.

I love deadwood on deciduous

I disagree with this though.

I know it’s not acceptable on a classical way, but for me, it’s aesthetically pleasing. Of course, need to be done on the right way to preserve the wood... Nope, I still like it...
Technically I disagree that you disagreeing the fact I like deadwood on deciduous.

Thanks for all of the great replies. I realize the scar isn't great, but I personally don't mind it. I just don't like the taper with it compared to the bottom of the trunk.

I thought about air layering right below the scar to eliminate the bottom part of the trunk. But I do agree that the top of the tree might have to be air layered and the bottom tossed.

I'll have to think it over.

RootsandRocks wrote: I thought about air layering right below the scar to eliminate the bottom part of the trunk. But I do agree that the top of the tree might have to be air layered and the bottom tossed

You can do both. I did with a Shishigashira.
Here the topic: www.bonsaiempire.com/forum/air-layering-...yering-shishigashira

Interesting, I assumed it would die if I air layered both. I'm guessing I would have to do one first and let it recover before doing the second? I have only air layered a couple of times.

RootsandRocks wrote: Interesting, I assumed it would die if I air layered both. I'm guessing I would have to do one first and let it recover before doing the second? I have only air layered a couple of times.

Yes, past year I did the two branches, this year I detach the mother plant from the rootstock.

Felidae wrote: Technically I disagree that you disagreeing the fact I like deadwood on deciduous.

I agree that you disagree that I disagree that you like deadwood on deciduous. Obviously you like deadwood so I'm not disagreeing with you liking it.
I disagree that it looks good on deciduous trees - and now I need to nuance that: it doesn't look good on many deciduous trees. On boxwood, it does work. On many others, I think it doesn't. And I am talking about deadwood, not hollow trees or uro's.