nice to hear this, i also think this is a healthy tree since it had no problems since i got it and it has been growing new shoots every time and 1 new kinda big shoot, about 3-4 branches are growing, but when i'm going to fertilize it, which one should i use? (i think the spring combination 12-6-6 NPK, but it is winter which is 0-10-10) which should i use 2 weeks before defoliating and also when should i fertilize?(i use liquid fertilizer.)(i haven't really done this that much.)

to be honest ficus are not based on seasons like maples, pines and the like.
as long as you have supplemental lighting you are in control...more light (16 to 18 hours on 8 to 6 off) and more fertalizer will force growth, less light (10 to 12 hours on) and less fert will slow down growth. it takes a few cycles to underatand how this will help develope your tree because sometimes growth can get out of control (long leaf internodes).

N is nitrigen which supportds leaf growth
p is for potasium which is for flower growth
k is for potash which is for root growth

your 12-6-6 will work for now and what you are doing seeing it will help leaf growth and is good for spring use on your outdoor trees
the 0-10-10 is used in fall for outdoor trees to give more food to the roots for preparation for winter
i use a 7-7-7 as a basic feeding . it is a liquid fert for violets along with a organic pellet form

seeing you tree is in a growing phase it would be a good time to start work on it. defoliate one day and wire the next so the sap has time to dry up. keep the soil moist and mist it regularly and keep it under lights 16 to 18 hours. it will take 2 to 3 weeks to form new leaves

i think i'll use the spring fertilizer(12-6-6) for 2-3 weeks till i see new growth and then i'll defoliate my tree.

also i have a dutch article about what certain elements do, such as (as you said, too much nitrogen will create too big leaves, denying the effects of defoliation.) Nitrogen helps growth in the plant. this article is really helpful but i COULD translate it if you REALLY wanted.

to be honest ficus are not based on seasons like maples, pines and the like.

oh, i didn't know that about my japanese maple.

Nice article behind the link. If you do feel like translating it: I might also take a stab at translating sections, adding whatever I know about the matter and do some work on my own website again; adding the different nutrients to my site. I know I should put more content up anyway

that would be awesome!

I do have a lot n my plate right now, so it would not be something done within a few days though.. I tend to spend a lot of time on my other hobbies currently (Building a 30 sqm pond, and writing an EU proposal for planting 80 sqkm forest in Madagaskar..) In case people are interested: I am a volunteer - Director Science - of WeForest.org (www.weforest.org; Website to be replaced before the year is over)

I would not defoliate your tree now. Defoliating trees is an advanced technique which enables bonsai artists to simulate multiple growing seasons allowing them to achieve their goals faster and reducing leave sizes. It's a very simple technique, but very difficult to right and a lot of things can go wrong that can easily kill it. It should not be attempted by a beginner without the proper training!

Don't rush things, right now your concern is to keep this tree alive and healthy. Defoliating your tree does not contribute to that as your tree is perfectly able to survive without.

dsdevries wrote:

I would not defoliate your tree now. Defoliating trees is an advanced technique which enables bonsai artists to simulate multiple growing seasons allowing them to achieve their goals faster and reducing leave sizes. It's a very simple technique, but very difficult to right and a lot of things can go wrong that can easily kill it. It should not be attempted by a beginner without the proper training!

Don't rush things, right now your concern is to keep this tree alive and healthy. Defoliating your tree does not contribute to that as your tree is perfectly able to survive without.

100% agreed.

To add to this: Defoliation is {should be} done for a specific purpose. Typically this is part of a ramnification strategy, or in preparation of the tree for a show. When the tree is very much in basic development, such as the one Kitty has shown, one would need all the energy the tree can muster. Allowing for heavy growth, development of a trunk-line & primary branching. After that has been done, one can consider more advanced development techniques, such as defoliation. Until the basic outline of the tree is ready, I would not defoliate. But those are my thoughts.

yeah, i kinda want it to grow so the ugly scar will be less visible and i misunderstood this technique.

(not related to this)the one side facing the sun has really nice green leaves and look healthier than the other side, i turned the tree now.

(also not related to this)at an event in the Netherland i bought 4 trees, a cerissa, a japanese maple, a chinese elm and a conifer(training tree) which i will post in the progression soon.

not to be a stick in the mud but i have been studying ficus retusa for some time and expieramenting for 4 years now. i would not tell you to defoliate if it would be detrimental to your trees growth.trust me heavy growth on ficus creates long branches without taper and it is not easy getting them back into shape. i have defoliated 1 year old cuttings without a problem .
fertalization and good lighting is the key. defoliating does not inhibit growth it increases the number of branches and leaves.once new smaller branches are formed hard pruning is done and then the tree is left to grow uninhibited.then the process is repeated.
if left alone you will end up with very long branches with foliage at the ends large leaves and no shape. just look at what was needed to get my large ficus into shape .it was left to grow uncontroled and it has taken 3 years to get it back into a decent shape and only has 3 of the original branches left.

it is up to you on what to do,if you want to defoliate follow my earlier instructions and your tree will be fine. i do sugjest getting supplemental lighting. a clip on desk lamp and a 40 watt cfl bulb positioned a few inches above the tree will work fine.