Auk, I don't know all tree in the book, I am still learning and listen, have you guys ever made mistakes??. I read what you said but still don't know why, got my pictures made your point clear, it did not have me a bit of her than I am doing it wrong. Fine to me, the good thing there were inputs that at least got me in the direction that it may not be a white pine.

Indo Andreas wrote: that it may not be a white pine.

It may very well be a white pine. There are loads of trees that have the same common name in different parts of the world, but refer to a different species. Which is why there are the scientific - Linean names. Try to get those wherever possible, and search for care using them.

To get sientific names of the garden suppliers and flower sellers you must be very lucky 2-5 of 100 know maybe 20-30 % of their plants, they sell by common names, Cimara-juniper, Cimara - White Pine, Cimara Udang- Australian Pine and so on. It takes quit a bit to finally find it. There are however also good knowledgeable people, in the botanical garden or at Robert Stevens place, one of his guys is mostly spot on if they have that tree. Well I will find out, I will make pictures and ask around, here or elsewhere.

Auk wrote:

Indo Andreas wrote: @ Aux; Well keep on wondering or give some input

You know I do give proper input. When you started posting on this forum, you seemed quite made it seem you are very knowledgeable, so in this case I was wondering what your plan is.

Thanks for posting the picture, which, imho, does prove my point.

So what is the right thing to do, and why??

SOLUTION TO RE-POTTING PINE AND JUNIPER without old soil if rice husk was used.

So we waited for an answer and solution of why, pine and juniper should not be repotted without former soil present. We haven't got the answer from two of our members, that advised me through out my being here so intensive, (I thank them so much), but luckily there is an solution to this and here we go.

Even more so there where no Indo bashing going on too. (Not yet )

The mycorrhizal fungus.

By contrast, in ECM tree species such as Pinus, the majority of the root surface is composed of roots that do not contribute to nutrient acquisition, such as the condensed tannin zone or the cork zone. Root zones that are active in nutrient acquisition such as the non-mycorrhizal white or ECM roots represent only 2% or 16% of the total root length, respectively. Only 1/10 near a root is used for water and nutrient intake.

ECM roots are characterized by a more or less dense fungal sheath that surrounds the mycorrhizal root completely. If the fungal mantle is impermeable to nutrient ions, the underlying root tissue would be isolated from the soil solution, and these roots would exclusively rely on the mycorrhizal pathway for nutrient uptake.

UPTAKE OF NITROGEN FROM THE SOIL
Many ecosystems in which the nitrogen (N) availability in the soil is low and the supply with N often limits plant growth are dominated by ECM plant communities. ECM fungi can take up inorganic N sources very efficiently from soils, but their capability to utilize organic N sources, and to make these sources available for the host plant, is generally seen as an important factor in the N nutrition of ECM plant species.

A good read is this:
www.motherearthnews.com/organic-gardenin...rrhiza-zbcz1403.aspx

So what needs to be done is this; on top of my older pine there is a scrub that growth like crazy, these and some soil from the old pine is separated.



The scrub will be divided with there roots on, the freshly potted Pine and Juniper.
These then grow within two to three weeks a root system through the entire pot and distribute the necessary fungus that then benefits the Pine and Juniper. Any fast rooting scrub, will do, flowering plants grasses and so on.

But to get an immediate result, we use the "Garden Tee" recipe, Old Pine soil is mixed with worm casting, (all my bonsai have worms in there pot), but I collect it in the garden and one of my pots has of worm cast plenty under it.

I will use a 16l bucket, fill in the old pine soil and worm casting, then add water and molasses, it's not so much a fertilizer as food for the beneficial microorganisms especially the bacterial that aid the fungus (think yeast and sugar it multiples like crazy).

Molasses definitely has some nutrients, too, but it's mostly about the carbohydrates - the sugar that get the important bacterial those feed the fungus for the pine and Juniper going. No molasses take normal unrefined sugar, it will work.

So let see that we document this nicely with pictures, so everybody benefits. The most important part is oxygen supply and about an 12-24 hour aeration period so all the bountiful bacteria and fungi can do their multiplying. I will keep it running for weeks after, with an Aquarium pump, and twice a week feeding.

Beside this, I only re-pott during rising moon, and maintenance during descending moon, old farmers trade that has proven many times over, many organic farmer still do, look it up.

and yet you see a 50% mortality after repotting. :whistle:

And what the moon has to do with anything.. Even IF there is a truth to lunar farming (Which I am not convinced of), it is based on groundwater table levels. You are working with plants in pots, that you water: No cycling of water tables there

I know I will get a reply like this, I will have fun anyhow no matter what. But since we are there Friedrich Hermmani, took me under his wing at his private residence in the Eifel Woffelsbach to teach me gardening and Bonsai in 1982-88.
www.gartenbau-hermanni.de/
He told me that the moon in breeding roses and other ornamental or any plants for that matter, including orchids responded to the moon phase, potted or not. He breed not only roses where a few hundreds where created by him. So with what ever you guys come up with is fine. I stay and believe by the experience I gain throug good discussion to my the points in question.

I am not all knowing, that why I am here, but since I have been throug all postings with your and Aux name attached, I find not only a knowledgeable pattern, rather also some things that are less pleasant. So wherever this Indo bashing starts now or it stops, is up to you.

I am not the person that post or comment to anybody negative thoughts or mind, but I am for sure not backing down on anything if it becomes personal. I hope you can understand this.

So let's have a good time and discuss Bonsai topics.