Like I said, I used the slang for sucker, not the term for growth from a root.

And I was only advising him to keep watch over it, since I've personally had one create reverse taper on my own tree.

el_cheezer wrote: Like I said, I used the slang for sucker, not the term for growth from a root.

And I was only advising him to keep watch over it, since I've personally had one create reverse taper on my own tree.

I am growing it as a sacrifice branch, goal is to thicken the lower part of the trunk to create better taper. This tree back-buds a lot too, so I will probably do some other sacrifice branches at higher spots than this, slowly to improve taper at higher points as well.

So main goals are:

- Secondary branches
- Improve taper
- watch for suckers (which hasn't been a problem yet)

it grows fast, real fast... pictures coming soon .

eangola wrote: It is a branch, not a sucker. The branch is exactly located where it seems to be at the picture. I left it as a "sacrifice branch" but it seems to be a bit to close to the bottom, and it might not be very helpful to help me with taper. What do you think Auk? should I leave it? cut it?

No comments. I think you already figured it out and your plans (including leaving it) make sense.

Update:

This picture is from last weekend
Growing healthy. I read that for forsythia branches should let grow wild until they reach their desired thickness, then cut back to desired length. When I bought this shrub it was very tall, with a lot of foliage and branches at the top. Luckily forsythia back-buds easily as we can see, and my goal is to get most of the foliage about 1/3 up the trunk, so those branches will be thicker and denser than those at the top. Tree is doing great

Be carefull with your approach. Forsythia will not heal over cut marks. So it you let it grow thick, you will alays keep the mark there. I think I would approach a more of a cut-and-grow approach, not letting branches get too fat

leatherback wrote: Be carefull with your approach. Forsythia will not heal over cut marks. So it you let it grow thick, you will alays keep the mark there. I think I would approach a more of a cut-and-grow approach, not letting branches get too fat

Thank you leatherback.
There's a guide on forsythia bonsai by steven alford that statesthat "you should let the branches grow wild until the base takes the desired thickness, then cut back to 2 or 3 nodes, then let the final branch grow and pinch to create ramification". Is this what you mean by "cut and grow"? thank you!

Another problem I see is that I can't do this with sacrifice branches, like the long one thickening the base of the trunk. If this branch gets too thick it will be a problem. Should I cut it before it gets too thick?. Thank you for your time.

eangola wrote: Another problem I see is that I can't do this with sacrifice branches, like the long one thickening the base of the trunk. If this branch gets too thick it will be a problem. Should I cut it before it gets too thick?. Thank you for your time.

It looks like you've got a nub at the base, just near that sacrificial. I'd cut that before I cut the live one. The proximity of the live one may help the whatever callus/healing process you may get out of it. I still wouldn't leave it on too long; it's about as thick as I'd go. I'd cut it by end of season.
Since you've been doing research on it, I'm sure you're aware: forsythia sends out suckers & buds no problem. They're just prolific around my area. You'll probably have several shoots over the coming years that will help thicken the base up. Let them grow for a season or two, then cut back.
You've already got several around the upper right knob, especially in the crotch area. I'd pinch several of those out or you'll have a big reverse taper there.

brkirkland22 wrote:

eangola wrote: Another problem I see is that I can't do this with sacrifice branches, like the long one thickening the base of the trunk. If this branch gets too thick it will be a problem. Should I cut it before it gets too thick?. Thank you for your time.

It looks like you've got a nub at the base, just near that sacrificial. I'd cut that before I cut the live one. The proximity of the live one may help the whatever callus/healing process you may get out of it. I still wouldn't leave it on too long; it's about as thick as I'd go. I'd cut it by end of season.
Since you've been doing research on it, I'm sure you're aware: forsythia sends out suckers & buds no problem. They're just prolific around my area. You'll probably have several shoots over the coming years that will help thicken the base up. Let them grow for a season or two, then cut back.
You've already got several around the upper right knob, especially in the crotch area. I'd pinch several of those out or you'll have a big reverse taper there.

Thank you!
upper right knob you mean by the end of the tree right? Yeah I removed some of those about 2 days ago. I won't let those grow thick as it should be close to the apex, does that make sense at all?

I would proably work with several sacrifice branches and remove them before they get too thick, say once every 2 yrs or so. .

leatherback wrote: I would proably work with several sacrifice branches and remove them before they get too thick, say once every 2 yrs or so. .

They grow a lot faster than that, Well just keep a close eye on it,.