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Paulownia kawakamii 4 years 9 months ago #50012

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Hello everyone :)

I am totally new to the art of Bonsai. I have been reading and researching the last few months and I feel like I would really love to do it.

I have purchased before I knew too much and bought a sapling of Paulownia Kawakamii (Sapphire Dragon Tree). I have checked lots of articles on this tree now and have read that it is in danger, very fast growing and rare.

I bought it because I wanted to try a fast growing tree that flowers beautifully. I probably rushed into this but I hope not :)

Can this tree be grown indoors or only outdoors?

I read that big leaves (which this species has) is not a popular choice for Bonsai?

It is currently in a round, deep pot that it came in today from a nursery and is about 60cm tall not including pot.

I would really like to jump in at the deep end, which probably is not a good idea but I prefer a challenge :)

I would like to purchase everything I need for this and other trees I have on my list for the future. I like quirky and uncommon things so I have been looking at Bonsai and I really love all of them. Each seems to have a very different character. What really draws me is twisted trunks and deadwood. Elegant, haunting, modern and very arty with lots of of thought going into the movement.

Do you folks have any recommendations for a good starter kit please?

Any tips or things to do with this particular tree would be much appreciated :)

Thank you you for taking the time to read this.

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Paulownia kawakamii 4 years 9 months ago #50024

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Hi and welcome.

The tree you have chosen is pretty spectacular as...
A tree.
Very difficult for a bonsai. It can be done, but maybe a Wisteria should be easier.
I wouldn't buy a simple starter kit from seeds, it will take you decades to have a bonsai out of it.
Go to a nearby specialised bonsai nursery, take a look at the plants there, the prices and the ones more adapted to your region, and then make a decision.
Junipers are easy, pines not so much, beeches are hardy and so on.
Take some time to study the species you have chosen before doing anything drastic, all bonsai need to be worked at the proper time.
Enjoy!
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Paulownia kawakamii 4 years 9 months ago #50050

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Thank you for your reply :)

Sorry for the questions but why would it be hard with this tree? I would still love to try if it is possible. I have read up about this tree and from what I gather it is fine in UK weather. I have also picked a few other trees that I would like to try. Maybe I should post them here and check first :)

Can you recommend a good maker of tools please. Doesn't matter about budget. I would rather splash out now for the best.

I will do a Wisteria as it is on my list.

Yes I did read that starting from seeds takes 5 to 6 years before you can start pruning so I would prefer as you said to start from a young tree.

If I was to try with this tree and fail, is this frowned upon? As I'm a novice and might kill it? Hopefully not. I will research much more.

Also how would I transfer this from a deep nursery pot to a Bonsai pot which is shallow? For future reference too with other young trees :)

I have added the picture I took today of the tree.

I will be visiting some Bonsai shops as well :)

Many thanks

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Paulownia kawakamii 4 years 9 months ago #50051

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I have read some more and I see now what the problems are. This would be more like an experiment I guess.
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Paulownia kawakamii 4 years 9 months ago #50084

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Can you recommend a good maker of tools please. Doesn't matter about budget. I would rather splash out now for the best.


Yes.
Most of my tools are from Kaneshin Japan. The best. Bought directly in the factory in Seiki.
But...
One of the side branch cutters are from Ryuga, a nice chinese surprise, very good.
I guess you will be happy to follow those three links below:
Enjoy!
www.bonsaiempire.com/forum/help-me/10921...ls-are-indispensable

www.bonsaiempire.com/forum/tools/10748-show-me-your-tools

www.bonsaiempire.com/forum/tools/10826-h...le-store-their-tools
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Last edit: Post by Clicio.

Paulownia kawakamii 4 years 9 months ago #50085

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Good mindset.. :)
Look around a little bit in online shops besides your visits at bonsai nurseries to get a wider understanding on price/quality.

Clicio, sometimes I feel some tools flexing during the cut. Until the point where it’s almost snapping.. :D
Is this okay, or I need to wear more protection before it’s smashing on my face chose more massive tools for those actions?
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Paulownia kawakamii 4 years 9 months ago #50086

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Clicio, sometimes I feel some tools flexing during the cut. Until the point where it’s almost snapping.. :D
Is this okay, or I need to wear more protection before it’s smashing on my face chose more massive tools for those actions?


I guess that is the reason I had to purchase a stronger concave cutter.
But experts say the quality of the steel also matters. So the price goes up.
In short, yes, you should use a bigger/stronger tool if you feel it is bending... Could really be dangerous if a tool breaks under pressure.
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Last edit: Post by Clicio.

Paulownia kawakamii 4 years 9 months ago #50087

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Thanks :)
I think I’ll level up the quality of the tool when I’ll level up the quality of the tree. That looks the right way for several reasons.
I’ll go for bigger stuff and maybe more on the stainless side for the rigidity.
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Paulownia kawakamii 4 years 9 months ago #50092

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Also how would I transfer this from a deep nursery pot to a Bonsai pot which is shallow? For future reference too with other young trees :)


I'm new to bonsai as well, and I'm happy with these training pots on amazon.
www.amazon.com/MUZHI-Succulent-Planter-D...=gateway&sr=8-3&th=1
I purchased a dozen of both sizes, and I've almost already used them all. They're strong and have plenty of drainage. The grid of holes in the bottom are great for wiring your roots down so your plant stays firmly planted. If you just choose 1 dozen, I recommend the larger size. They're still pretty small.... for me, they're the perfect size. I use the smaller size for tiny saplings.

Anyway, for your first transplant, if you choose to change the soil at all, I recommend mending in some of the original soil, because this is the soil the plant grew up in its whole life. If you completely change it all at once, the plant will be in shock and you may loose all the leaves.

Personally, when I transplant, I loosen up as much soil as I can by hand, then I grab my water hose and wash all the soil out of the roots. I haven't seen anyone recommend this practice of washing all the soil out of the roots, but I like to see all the roots I'm dealing with so I can make well informed decisions. I check to see if there's 2 or more separate trees that I can plant in separate pots, thus increasing my potential for experimenting in different ways with the same tree. (Earlier this week, I got a great deal by only paying $10 for a struggling 3 gallon Goji Berry plant, and I actually split it into 9 separate plants that are all doing well.) Sometimes there will be what looks like 2 separate trees, but they are bridged together by 1 root, and at that point, I decide whether to cut the root in the center or if I want to keep them together. When I keep them together, I will choose to wire the roots down to the pot in the arrangement of my choice.

Wiring your roots down is important to give your plant stability. You don't want your trunk wiggling all over the place. (...unless you're one of those "trunk wigglers", but that's a different forum.) Wiring your roots down can help you to center your plant in the pot or off-center your plant if you so choose. It can also help when you're transplanting from deeper pots, where you'll likely encounter longer roots that make it hard to fit your new plant into the training pot. Just coil around a longer root and wire it down.

Once my roots are wired down, I personally like to add additional holes to the rim of the pot or tie a rope with several knotted loops to the underside of the pots lip, then proceed to secure the trunk in the position of my choice. This gives better control over the trunk positioning and helps cement the direction that you're trying to go with the base. It also gives you a good strong foundation for you to wire your branches down or spread them out if you choose to do so.

When adding the soil, make sure you use a poking device to pack the soil between and under the roots. You don't want to leave any air gaps. I choose to fill the soil a little higher than the level I want the soil to be, because there will be some settling the first few times you water.

After every transplant, I choose to water very heavily as soon as possible on the first day. Then I don't water for the next day or two, if not longer. As long as I can stick my finger in an inch or so and still feel moisture, I let it be.

I don't know if this is too much information or just enough information... My aim is somewhere in the middle where hopefully you took something from it.
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Last edit: Post by Trees_As_Therapy.

Paulownia kawakamii 4 years 9 months ago #50121

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Thank you so much everyone for taking the time to help me :)

I will take a look at the tools you mentioned so thank you for that.

Wow thank you for the very detailed reply. It's perfectly worded in lamens terms for me. I will use your advice for my first transplant and probably many times after :)

Just a few of questions please.

How do you tie down the roots? Is there anchors to attach wire to on the pots?

When would I know it is time to transplant?

I'm not entirely sure on roots. Do I need to prune them to keep the tree small or?

Also I really love how roots show above ground. How is this achieved?

I have so many questions but I won't chew your ears off lol

Many thanks for the links. They are very informative :)

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Last edit: Post by J8ngles.
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