Tropfrog wrote:

Why excactly do you think about copper treatment? What is the issues you want to correct or prevent with it?

This summer, I’ve had 10 potted wisterias with yellow/brown spots, while the new leaves were deformed. Upon closer inspection, I had 2 issues at hand: red spider and a fungal disease.

Since I took action in autumn, when the growing season ended, I’ve been given 2 treatments:
- VERTIMEC 1.8 EC for the remaining leaves with the red spider
- BOUILLIE BORDELAISE WDG and Toil (copper treatment)

The copper treatment is used for prevention (autumn+spring) and it is being used on the trunk and branches in dormancy.

I guess in my mind, I see this treatment as “vitamins for trees”. So, I was wondering if I should/can do something for my pines not just my deciduous trees?

In my mind one can treat a tree for the symptoms but never for the reason. Treatments will need to be repeated. Corrections of the reason just need to be done once.

Copper Sulfate mixed with quicklime is a common fungicide in agriculture, grapes but also many fruiting trees are treated with this in winter. I have is also in my "arsenal" as a winter treatment, although I more frequently look at sulfur against mildew when it comes to general winter treatment. But as said, if I notice heavy infections in summer / fall I spray in later winter with a copper solution.

I agree with the hesitance using it on evergreens, although I have not seen any adverse reactions to date.

Another year, another photoshoot!
Also, I have placed 2x JBP in much bigger pots with soil 1/3 akadama, 1/3 pumice, 1/3 volcanic rock (as before) + root pruning.

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Wow! Your trees buds out a lot earlier than mine. They have just started and will proboably not be in this stage until late April or beginning of May.

It proboably makes sence to do something about those handlebar branches right now. Two weeks earlier, just before they start to bud is the best time if you would like to wait until next spring.

Bud selection should be done right now.

Tropfrog wrote:

It proboably makes sence to do something about those handlebar branches right now.
Two weeks earlier, just before they start to bud is the best time if you would like to wait until next spring.

Handlebar branches? Do you mean the horizontal branches of JBP #1 and #3?
What do you propose to do about them?

Tropfrog wrote:

Bud selection should be done right now.

Of course!
Keep the strongest one and 4x weak ones (and eventually cut 2x of them later in summer).
Right?

Razvan wrote:

Handlebar branches? Do you mean the horizontal branches of JBP #1 and #3?
What do you propose to do about them?

Yes, eventually one of them needs to go as the trunk will get reverse taper there by time if not done. It is not urgent and can proboably wait a year or two if you like the trees as they are now.

Razvan wrote:

Of course!
Keep the strongest one and 4x weak ones (and eventually cut 2x of them later in summer).
Right?

I usually remove all but two weak ones where I want tight ramification or one medium strong and one weak where I want longer internodes. It is important to know in what direction one wants the branches to go. But your option may work as well.

Tropfrog wrote:

Yes, eventually one of them needs to go as the trunk will get reverse taper there by time if not done. It is not urgent and can proboably wait a year or two if you like the trees as they are now.

I understand the issue with inverse taper.

However, it is unclear to me how to shape JBP's main trunk further.
Current issues:
- the current main trunk doesn't seem to have branches
- there is a big distance between the "handlebars" branches and the upcoming branches
Current plan: chop the main trunk in the summer and establish one of the current "handlebar branches as a new leader.

Am I out of my mind?

Tropfrog wrote:

I usually remove all but two weak ones where I want tight ramification or one medium strong and one weak where I want longer internodes. It is important to know in what direction one wants the branches to go. But your option may work as well.

Your technique sounds interesting!
So for lateral branches, I should opt for weak nodes for shorter ramification and strong nodes for growth?

Razvan wrote:

I understand the issue with inverse taper.

However, it is unclear to me how to shape JBP's main trunk further.
Current issues:
- the current main trunk doesn't seem to have branches
- there is a big distance between the "handlebars" branches and the upcoming branches
Current plan: chop the main trunk in the summer and establish one of the current "handlebar branches as a new leader.

Am I out of my mind?

Not totally out of your mind. But there may be a lack in the understanding of backbudding in JBP. It is very strong. Stick to yearly bud pinching and branch selection. The year after needles on the trunk has fallen new buds will show up everywhere. You will have a lot of buds and branches to shose from.

Your idea is also an option. However these branches grow nearly 90 degrees from the trunk and is very hard to make it look like a natural bend. Better to wait with trunkshop until you have an upward facing branch that can make a more natural bend.

Razvan wrote:

Your technique sounds interesting!
So for lateral branches, I should opt for weak nodes for shorter ramification and strong nodes for growth?

Corect. Sometimes one lose a bud . But sticking to yearly bud pinching, new will come.

Bonsai is a maraton, not a sprint